I was given it when I was 10 or 11, and by the time I was 12 I knew the whole book by heart. It had detailed descriptions of every surfing spot on the coast and great captions. That's incredibly well done – he nails a wave, an incident, a moment in the surf world like no-one else.Ī book I grew up on was Surfing Guide to Southern California by Bill Cleary. He also wrote The Encyclopaedia of Surfing, which I wrote a foreword to a few years ago. The ones I love are for obsessives only, like The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw. Political writer and surf dude William Finnegan. What books on surfing would you recommend? The Narrow Road to the Deep North was not my favourite, but I really liked The Unknown Terrorist. Richard Flanagan wrote a piece for the New Yorker on the Museum of Old and New Art in Tasmania and that led me to his writing. I also enjoyed Peter Carey's True History of the Kelly Gang, especially the sustained performance of the language. Since then I've read Breath by Tim Winton, the best literary description of surfing I've ever read and a very good novel in its own right. I read White's The Eye of the Storm and Voss when we were driving from the south coast along a lovely, rough road up to Alice Springs and Darwin. I remember reading Thomas Keneally and Patrick White. Are there any Australian books or authors you really like? You lived in Australia in the late 1970s.
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